Ecosse and Beyond: 29th June, Wednesday Lewis & Harris

Ullapool, Outer Hebrides, St Kilda and Skye

Ferry arriving at Ullapool

Leaving Ullapool

Ullapool from the ferry

Crofts’ field systems - “runrigs”

Stornoway, Isle of Lewis

Stornoway

I thought Stornoway, collectively, was dull, but some of the buildings are very fine and relatively unspoilt

Lews Castle (no public access). This was built in 1863 by Sir James Matheson after he had resettled the crofters who had lived on and farmed the land. Soil and the trees were imported – the woodland is unique.

There was a protest and riot in 1872 when the crofters from Bernera marched on Lews Castle. The 1886 Crofters’ Act was too little too late. Lord Leverhulme (Unilever, Port Sunlight) bought Lewis and Harris in 1918. It seems he wanted to reorganise everything on the island – a sort of island new town, to create employment and places to live – he thought crofing was an entirley mpossible way of life. He founded MacFisheries, built a cannery, an ice factory, built roads, bridges, a light railway, bought boats and planned to use planes to spot the herring shoals. He had not anticipated the level of opposition to his plans. Nevertheless he ploughed on with his plans and it was for financial reasons he finally pulled out in 1923. This left an economic hole and thousands more emigrated. He turned his efforts to Harris where they were more appreciative. He wanted to develop Leverburgh (more later), bought a whaling station, a spinning mill and started building new roads. None were very successful and when he died in 1925 the plug was pulled on all of his schemes.