I can’t fix the problem with my laptop which is preventing me posting photos and the ability to upload my blog has, to date, been quite limited. So I am postponing the photo blogging (still taking loads of photos so can do this at a later date) and will occasionally write an update but I am not a wordsmith.
I last blogged with photos while on Arran. The weather was mixed, some fine days, some not and the temperature was not warm. While walking I saw an adder and while driving 3 otters ran across the road in front of me (mother and 2 cubs). The last camp site I stayed on had red deer grazing around the tents and vans.
After Arran I stayed in Ayr for a couple of nights before moving south to Dumfries where I had lunch with Mark, Simon’s godson and went on to see Suzanne, a school friend, in the evening so had a lot of catching up. Both Ayr & Dumfries are Burns country. I’ve decided I need a list of prominent Scots to check if they have any connections with where I visit: Mary Queen of Scots, William Wallace, Robert the Bruce, Burns, Walter Scot – but should I add other prominent persons? Wordsworth, Turner, Bothell, Johnson, Mendelssohn….
Back to Edinburgh for Rachel and Alan’s wedding where Dolly the horse came too (for the photos). I stayed there for a few more days and met up with the Oz friends (who had walked the Coast to Coast) as well as more school friends: Katie, Marjorie and Rosemary. I also went to see the play Anne Boleyn, which I enjoyed and I thought James Garnon who played James VI/I was brilliant.
After Edinburgh I headed north and ended up in Killin. Not much to say about it because it just rained while I was there so I moved on to Arisaig which I had given up on last year because it was too popular and there was no room for me. I stayed in two different campsites and at each I had one good day and one bad. On one of the good days I visited the “Local Hero” beach. On one of the bad days I drove up to Mallaig where all the ferries had been cancelled because of the weather which indicates how bad bad was. I also discovered that the Van is leaking through the hole for the TV aerial (which I haven’’t used yet!) so I had to extensively reorganise my storage.
I then headed south to Moidart, Sunart and Morven, all peninsulas. I intended to go to Ardnamurchan point, the most westerly mainland point, 20 miles west of Land’s End. Halfway along the winding single track road a cyclist coming from the Point flagged me down to tell me that the road was blocked two lorries had had a head to head accident. He had had to wriggle past the vehicles carrying his bike . I met him on the ferry the following morning and he showed me the photos. So I abandoned Ardnamurchan Point and drove to Strontian (which strontium is named after) and down to Lochaline. On the way to Lochaline I encountered my first set of road works which on a single track road is a major event and while waiting every one gets out of the car and has a chat.
The following morning I crossed to Fishnish, Isle of Mull and on my way to Tobermory encountered another set of road works. After Tobermory I drove around to Ulva Ferry on the west coast of Mull for a trip to Staffa and Lung (one of the Treshnish Isles). Weather broke down again so trip was cancelled. I crossed to Ulva on a little ferry for a very wet walk.
After that I went back to the east coast to Craignure to a very well kept camp site and did a major wash. Craignure would be perfect if the pub was nicer. The following day I cycled to Duart castle where I was outraged that the tea room’s tea was just a tea bag in a cup of hot water – surely they can afford to buy some teapots and do it properly!
The following day the weather was good enough for the trip to Staffa & Lunga. On Staffa there were some Black Guillemots close to the landing stage and I was able to watch them before the crowds drove them off. Staffa was busy with what I call “Slipper Tourists” i.e. improperly shod for the circumstances and was amused to see a group of Chinese hunckered down and picnicking with what looked like pot noodles and using chopsticks. Actually visiting Fingal’s Cave was too much for most of the Slippered Tourists. Lunga was magic. Puffins galore and able to get within 2 or 3 feet of them. A sea eagle was spotted although I was looking at guillemots at the time.
The following day I drove to Fionnphort for the passenger ferry to Iona. On arriving on the island I was thrilled to hear corncrake –but didn’t manage to spot any. After visiting the Abbey I walked up the one hill and over to the beach where there were a lot of lovely shells and colourful stones (probably extraordinary geology).
The weather was still holding so I decided to climb Mull’s Munro, Ben More, 966m. My guide book recommended the ridge walk (definitely not a walk). I kept looking at it and telling myself it couldn’t be as bad as it looked. But in comparison, Striding Edge is a comfortable stroll. The following day I did another robust walk to see a fossil tree.
The next day I went back to Tobermory and caught a little ferry to Kilchoan, on the Ardnamurchan peninsula, another attempt at the Lighthouse. I stayed the night in the car park watching the lovely sunset and visited the lighthouse when it opened in the morning. I had a long chat with the “attendant” who was one of the lighthouse keepers for 15 years until redundancy. Nothing happened with the lighthouse until 5 years ago when the local authority took it over for tourism. His wife died 3 years ago and he wasn’t sure if he would take part in the Jubilee festivities as it is just not the same when you are on your own.
I then crossed to Oban (going back to Tobermory, driving down to Craignure) and stayed in a very organised camp site – a bit of a shock to the system. I went to a couple of garages to see if they could help me fix my leak – not helpful at all but back at the organised camp site they were very helpful and allowed me to use a step ladder and the aerial is now duck-taped up, fingers crossed that that works.
The next day I drove to Seil Island (there is a Telford bridge) for a boat trip to the Corryvreckan whirlpool, between Jura and Scarba, renowned for being the third largest whirlpool in the world. The weather and tide meant that the whirlpool was quite benign. But we did see lots of porpoises.
Up early the following morning to cross to Coll. I drove the the west of the island and walked down to Totronald, base of RSPB reserve particularly of corncrake. And I saw one. Only the males call. They lift their head to call and then scurry off to another spot to call. For two nights I rough camped in a field between Feall and Crossapol Bays, a beautiful spot where I was serenaded by corncrakes, lapwings and skylarks while watching hares frolic. The hares were fearless and came quite close to me. In the mornings I was woken up by the Van rocking as cows nuzzled up to and licked the Van. The Van is developing some character with duck tape and cow smears. As well as seeing a corncrake I managed to find a cowrie shell, albeit a very tiny one. And it is lovely to be walking among the orchids as well as the tormentil, bloody cranesbill, butterwort.
I am now in a far from smart campsite – but with wifi – on Tiree and again am listening to corncrakes and watching hares. Coll and Tiree, while close neighbours are very different in character. Tiree is much more fertile and the population is higher and seems much more organised. Am off to explore by bike.
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